Izmir Backpackers
Well-rated hostel within walking distance of the Kordon and the Alsancak nightlife strip. Clean, friendly, with shared rooftop access and local tips.
from EUR 20 / night View →
Turkey · Aegean · Travel guide
Izmir
The most open-minded city in Turkey: a long waterfront promenade, a living bazaar quarter and the best-preserved ancient city, Ephesus, only 40 kilometres away.
Photo: Hakan Tahmaz / Pexels
What does a trip to Izmir cost?
Adjust the values to your trip: the calculator updates live (EUR, converted from CHF estimates).
1,434 EUR
≈ 717 EUR per person
- Flights 642 EUR
- Accommodation 428 EUR
- Food 321 EUR
- Local transport 43 EUR
Estimates for orientation, not booking prices. Flights and hotels vary strongly by season: current prices are behind the links below.
Money & payment: You pay in Turkish lira (TRY). The exchange rate moves a lot, which is why all prices here are given in francs and euros. Cards are accepted almost everywhere; you need cash for the dolmuş, markets and tips. Flight time: 3 to 4 hours.
Recommended hotels
Nine options in three price ranges, each among the best-rated on Booking.com.
Budget
Hotel Baylan Basmane
Solid, well-rated budget hotel in the centre near Basmane station. Handy for early trains to Ephesus. Clean, simple, inexpensive.
from EUR 35 / night View →
Antik Han Hotel
Small hotel in a historic caravanserai building in the middle of the Kemeraltı bazaar. Unique location, authentic atmosphere, very cheap for what it is.
from EUR 50 / night View →
Mid-range
Kordon Hotel
Well-rated city hotel right on the waterfront promenade. Some rooms with sea views, breakfast included, very central location. One of the most popular mid-range hotels in Izmir.
from EUR 95 / night View →
Key Hotel
Modern boutique hotel within walking distance of the water. More stylish than the big chain hotels, very attentive service and excellent reviews.
from EUR 105 / night View →
Wyndham Grand Izmir Özdilek
International chain hotel with a reliable standard, pool and fitness centre. Well connected, ideal for travellers who want a dependable mid-range hotel with no surprises.
from EUR 130 / night View →
Luxury
Swissôtel Grand Efes Izmir
The best-known luxury hotel in Izmir, right on the bay. Large pool area, several restaurants, casino, the best sea views in the city. The address for travellers who expect international luxury standards.
from EUR 300 / night View →
Hilton Izmir
Hilton standard in a prime location: rooftop pool with a panoramic view of the bay, generous rooms, dependable service. Very central, everything within walking distance.
from EUR 235 / night View →
Radisson Blu Hotel Izmir
Modern luxury hotel on the waterfront promenade with a large spa and excellent breakfast. Very well rated for service and location. Slightly cheaper than the Swissôtel for similar quality.
from EUR 215 / night View →
If you book through these links we earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.
Experiences worth your time
Ancient Agora of Izmir
Roman agora from the 2nd century right in the city centre, freely accessible. One of the rare places where you meet ancient colonnades in the middle of a modern metropolis.
Kemeraltı Bazaar
Izmir's historic bazaar, in operation since the 17th century. Not a tourist market but everyday life: spices, textiles, craftsmen, cafés. Allow at least an hour.
Ephesus day trip
One of the largest ancient cities in the world, 70 km south of Izmir. The Library of Celsus, the marble streets and the Great Theatre are among the most impressive things Turkey has to offer.
Çeşme day trip
The Çeşme peninsula lies 80 km to the west, with crystal-clear water, sandy beaches and a Venetian-era castle. Direct buses from Izmir.
Asansör viewpoint
Historic passenger lift from 1907 in the Karataş district. At the top: a café and a view over the whole bay. The loveliest free experience in the city.
If you book through these links we earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.
Food & drink
Izmir eats differently from the rest of Turkey: lighter, with olive oil, herbs from the market and a lot of street. Boyoz for breakfast, kumru at midday, midye dolma in the evening on the Kordon. Most of it costs a few francs and is sold not in restaurants but from counters, carts and bakery windows.
Boyoz
Flaky, oily pastry of Sephardic origin, fresh from the oven, with sesame. The breakfast of Izmir. CHF 0.80 to 1.50 (about EUR 0.85 to 1.60) a piece.
Tip:Order it with a hard-boiled egg and a glass of tea, that is how it is eaten here, and before nine in the morning it comes out warm.
Gevrek
The Izmir simit is called gevrek: darker, crisper and dipped in grape syrup before it goes into the oven. CHF 0.50 to 0.80 (about EUR 0.55 to 0.85).
Tip:Eat it on the ferry to Karşıyaka; the crossing costs less than the gevrek.
Kumru
Crisp sesame roll with tulum cheese, sucuk, tomatoes and grilled pepper, invented in Çeşme and found all over Izmir. CHF 3 to 5 (about EUR 3.20 to 5.40).
Tip:The Çeşme version with sucuk and salami is the filling one; the plain one with cheese is the original.
Midye Dolma
Mussels stuffed with spiced rice, pine nuts and currants, eaten cold with lemon. CHF 0.30 to 0.50 (about EUR 0.30 to 0.55) each, and you count the shells at the end.
Tip:In the evening and only where it is busy: turnover means fresh. Ten is a good start.
Zeytinyağlı and Aegean herbs
Vegetables braised in olive oil and wild Aegean herbs (şevketi bostan, radika, samphire), served cold with lemon. CHF 3 to 5 (about EUR 3.20 to 5.40) per meze.
Tip:Just point at three things in the counter; the herbs are seasonal and change daily.
İzmir Köfte
Meatballs baked with potato slices, peppers and tomato sauce. The lokanta dish of the city, CHF 6 to 9 (about EUR 6.50 to 9.70) with rice.
Tip:At lunchtime, with cacık (yoghurt with cucumber) on the side, and pay at the till in a lokanta.
Şambali
Semolina cake with yoghurt, soaked in syrup, served with kaymak or peanuts. Izmir's own dessert. CHF 1.50 to 3 (about EUR 1.60 to 3.20).
Tip:With kaymak rather than without, and a Turkish coffee from the Kızlarağası Hanı next door.
Book a food tour: Izmir
Through markets and eateries with a guide, tastings included.
If you book through these links we earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.
History & background
Izmir, known in antiquity as Smyrna, is one of the oldest cities in the world. There was a settlement here as early as the 3rd millennium BC; from the 11th century BC the Greeks built Smyrna into a major trading port. The ancient agora in the city centre dates from the Roman period of the 2nd century AD and is freely accessible today in the middle of the city. In the 19th century Smyrna was one of the most cosmopolitan trading cities in the whole eastern Mediterranean, with large Greek, Armenian, Jewish and Levantine communities. Merchants from all over Europe kept trading houses here. This cosmopolitan legacy ended with the Great Fire of 1922, which destroyed large parts of the city shortly after the end of the Greco-Turkish War. Today's city has completely reinvented itself: Izmir is considered the most liberal and open-minded big city in Turkey, with a lively café culture, a long waterfront promenade, the Kordon, and one of the most interesting old-town markets in the country.
Insider tips
Kemeraltı: the real bazaar, not the tourist attraction
The Kemeraltı bazaar is not a tourist market but the heart of Izmir since the 17th century. Craftsmen, spice traders, textiles, antiques and street stalls stretch over several kilometres of lanes. Locals shop here every day. No picture menus, no price tags in euros, no tour groups with flags. The Bet Israel synagogue and the Kızlarağası Han, an Ottoman caravanserai, both sit in the middle of the bazaar and can be visited.
Kordon: waterfront promenade and coffee break
The Kordon is the long waterfront promenade along the Bay of Izmir, about three kilometres from Alsancak to Konak. In the morning locals jog here; in the afternoon they sit in coffee houses looking out over the water. In the evening the restaurants fill up. The view of the bay with its ships and the coast on the far side is free. At the end of the Kordon stands the old Ottoman clock tower on Konak Square, Izmir's best-known landmark.
Ephesus: a wonder of the ancient world in 45 minutes
From Izmir to Ephesus (Efes) is about 70 kilometres, reachable by bus or train in under an hour and a half. In antiquity Ephesus was one of the largest cities in the world and today it is the best-preserved ancient city in the eastern Mediterranean: the Library of Celsus, the Great Harbour, the marble streets, and the House of the Virgin Mary nearby. Go early; Ephesus is more pleasant and quieter before midday. Nearby is Selçuk, a small, quiet town that makes a good base for an overnight stay.
Çeşme: beaches and Aegean wind
About 80 kilometres west of Izmir lies Çeşme, a peninsula with turquoise water, sandy beaches and a constant wind that makes it one of the best windsurfing and kitesurfing spots in Turkey. The old town of Çeşme itself has a Venetian-era fortress, small fish restaurants and far fewer tourists than Antalya. Direct buses leave regularly from the Izmir bus station.
Eating in Izmir: boyoz, kumru, midye
Izmir has its own culinary identity. Boyoz is a flaky pastry that comes fresh from the oven early in the morning and is served sprinkled with sesame. Kumru is the local sandwich: a crusty roll with cheese, sucuk (spicy sausage) and tomatoes. Midye dolma, mussels stuffed with spiced rice and served with lemon, are bought in the evening from street stalls for a few lira apiece. A çay in the bazaar costs next to nothing.
Asansör: a view at no extra charge
The Asansör ("elevator") is a historic passenger lift from 1907 in the Karataş district that connects a lane with a raised rocky ledge. At the top: a café and a view over the whole Bay of Izmir. The ride costs a few lira. The surrounding neighbourhood, Karataş, is one of the prettiest and quietest in the city, with turn-of-the-century houses and little tourism.
Frequently asked questions about Izmir
How many days should I plan for Izmir?
Two to three days are enough for the city itself. Add Ephesus, Çeşme and one more day trip and you are at five to six days. Izmir combines well with a short trip to Cappadocia.
Are there direct flights from Western Europe to Izmir?
There are seasonal direct connections from Zurich and several other European cities to Izmir (ADB). More often you connect in Istanbul or another hub. It pays to compare both options on price.
Is Izmir suitable for solo travellers?
Yes, especially so. Izmir is considered the safest and most pleasant city in Turkey for solo travellers. The city is well developed, has a reliable metro system and a relaxed atmosphere.
How do I get from Izmir to Ephesus?
The TCDD train from Basmane station towards Selçuk takes about 1.5 hours and costs very little. From Selçuk, Ephesus is reachable on foot or by dolmuş. Alternatively there are guided day trips from Izmir.
Itineraries with this destination
Turkey · 5 stops
Aegean Round Trip
Izmir · Çeşme · Kuşadası · Pamukkale · Bodrum
Ancient cities, wine villages, travertine terraces and the most beautiful coves of the west coast in one loop from Izmir. Twelve days, five bases, around 800 kilometres on good roads.
Turkey · 6 stops
West Coast Camper Van Tour
Çanakkale · Izmir · Çeşme · Bodrum · Fethiye · Kaş
Two weeks in a camper between the Dardanelles and the Lycian Coast: Troy and Assos, olive groves, windy bays, beaches where you sleep by the water, and harbour towns where in the evening you simply park the van.
Activities in the region
Events
Mar 21
Mesir Macunu Festival Manisa
FestivalFor over 450 years, the spice paste Mesir Macunu, a mix of 41 spices and sugar, has been thrown into the crowd from the Sultan Mosque in Manisa. The custom goes back to the healing of Sultan Süleyman's mother and is on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. There are also parades, concerts and markets throughout the city.
For travellers: Manisa is an hour from Izmir, a day trip by train or bus; on the main throwing day the old town is packed.
Sep 3
Izmir International Fair (İzmir Enternasyonal Fuarı)
CultureThe oldest fair in Turkey, held since the 1920s in Kültürpark in the middle of Izmir: a mix of trade fair, fairground, concerts and food with a different partner country every year. In the evening Turkish stars play on the open-air stage; during the day there are exhibitions and food stalls. Entrance to the park costs a few francs.
For travellers: Hotels around Alsancak and Konak are pricier and fuller during fair week; otherwise early September is a good time for Izmir and Çeşme.
More destinations in Aegean
Aegean
Bodrum
Whitewashed lanes, a Crusader castle on the harbour, one of the Seven Wonders in ruins and the quietest bays on the Aegean coast: Bodrum is more than a summer party destination.
Aegean
Kuşadası
Gateway to Ephesus, three more ancient cities and the wine village of Şirince: Kuşadası is the best base for the ancient west coast of Turkey.
Aegean
Pamukkale
What the white travertine terraces really cost, why you should stay one night and how to see Hierapolis without the tour buses.
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Çeşme
What a week at the tip of the Aegean really costs, where Alaçatı is more show than substance and which bays are worth it.