Dresden Striezelmarkt and Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt
Festival · GermanyThe two most famous Christmas markets in Germany: the Dresden Striezelmarkt on the Altmarkt has been held since 1434 and claims to be the oldest, with a 14-metre tiered pyramid from the Ore Mountains, prune figures (Pflaumentoffel), stollen and the Stollen Festival on the second Saturday of Advent, when a giant stollen weighing tonnes is paraded through the city. Nuremberg's Christkindlesmarkt on the Hauptmarkt is opened by the Christkind from the balcony of the Frauenkirche, with 180 red-and-white stalls, gingerbread, grilled sausages and a strict rule against plastic decorations. Mulled wine costs around CHF 4 to 5 (EUR 4 to 5) plus deposit, food CHF 5 to 10 (EUR 5 to 10), noticeably cheaper than in Switzerland. On Advent weekends both markets are so full from 3 pm that visitor flows are managed and coaches bring tens of thousands; on weekday mornings it is quiet. Hotels in Dresden and Nuremberg cost a good one and a half times the usual rate in Advent and are gone early for weekends; Dresden is around seven hours from Zurich by train, Nuremberg four.
For travellers: In Dresden combine the visit with the smaller markets in the Neustadt and the medieval market in the Stallhof, in Nuremberg with the sister cities market on Rathausplatz; both cities are reachable car-free by night train or ICE, which is the best choice in Advent.