Eviano

Turkey · Road trip · 12 days

Black Sea Road Trip

Tea plantations down to the sea, monasteries on cliff faces, Ottoman timber houses and a coast hardly any Swiss traveller has ever seen. Twelve days, a good 1,200 kilometres, a lot of green and a lot of rain.

The route, day by day

  1. Day 1 to 3

    Trabzon: Sümela, Uzungöl and the City on the Slope

    You fly via Istanbul to Trabzon, six to seven hours, and collect the car at the airport, which sits right by the sea. The first afternoon is for the city: the Hagia Sophia of Trabzon with its frescoes, Boztepe hill with its view over the bay, and in the evening Akçaabat köfte or hamsi, the small anchovies, served every way in season. On the second day drive early into the Altındere valley to the Sümela Monastery, 45 kilometres, clinging to the cliff 300 metres above the valley like a swallow's nest. Before nine you are almost alone; from ten the buses arrive. Back in the afternoon via the tea gardens of Maçka. The third day leads to Uzungöl, 100 kilometres, the lake with timber houses at 1,100 metres, packed with Gulf visitors in high summer, quiet in June and September. Sleep in a mid-range hotel on the Meydan in Trabzon, around CHF 60 (about EUR 64) per night. On to Rize: 75 kilometres on the D010 coastal expressway, one hour.

    Tours at this stop: Sümela Monastery from Trabzon ↗Uzungöl day trip ↗

    Open the Trabzon travel guide →

  2. Day 4 to 6

    Rize: Tea Gardens, the Fırtına Valley and Ayder

    Rize is the tea capital of Turkey, and every slope shows it: tea gardens down to the sea, picked by hand, mostly by women with baskets on their backs. On the first day visit the tea garden above town with its viewing terrace, drink tea there overlooking the Black Sea, then drive into the Fırtına Valley, the Storm Valley, with its Ottoman stone arch bridges over turquoise water up to Çamlıhemşin. You spend two nights up in Ayder at 1,350 metres in a timber lodge with a thermal bath, or in a quieter guesthouse in the valley, around CHF 70 (about EUR 75) per night. On the second day you drive from there, or in rain go with a 4x4 driver, up to the high pastures of Pokut and Sal, where you stand above the clouds when fog fills the valley. The third day is a hike to Zilkale castle or a rest day, with muhlama for breakfast, the region's cheese and cornmeal dish. On to Amasya: 470 kilometres on the D010 to Samsun and then the D795 inland, six to seven hours with breaks, the longest leg of the route, so set off early.

    Tours at this stop: Pokut and Sal high pastures by 4x4 ↗Fırtına Valley and Zilkale ↗Rafting on the Fırtına ↗

    Open the Rize travel guide →

  3. Day 7 to 8

    Amasya: Konaks on the River and Royal Tombs in the Rock

    After the long drive, Amasya is the reward: a town in a narrow river gorge, a row of white and brown Ottoman timber houses on the north bank, the Yalıboyu konaks, and above them in the cliff the tombs of the Pontic kings, floodlit at night. You sleep in one of these konaks, the whole difference between a good and a forgettable visit, mid-range around CHF 55 (about EUR 59) per night with a courtyard and river view. On the first evening a stroll along the Yeşilırmak and dinner facing the illuminated tombs is enough. The second day begins with the climb to the rock tombs, 15 minutes of steps, and on to the castle on the mountain top, from where you see the whole town in the river bend. In the afternoon explore the city of princes on foot: the Sultan Beyazıt Mosque, the museum with the mummies, the medreses, plus the apple Amasya is famous for. Two nights; the town needs no more, and fewer would be a shame. On to Safranbolu: 330 kilometres via Çorum and the D100 westwards, around four and a half hours; Hattuşa on the way is worth a two-hour detour.

    Tours at this stop: Amasya city walking tour ↗Hattuşa day trip ↗

    Open the Amasya travel guide →

  4. Day 9 to 10

    Safranbolu: The Ottoman Town that Stood Still

    Safranbolu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because an entire Ottoman town from the 18th and 19th centuries survives here: around 2,000 timber-framed houses with projecting upper floors, cobbled lanes, a caravanserai and a hamam that is still in operation. Come on a weekday; at weekends tour groups from Ankara shuffle through the lanes and the konaks cost more. You sleep in a restored konak with original wooden ceilings and a built-in bathroom, mid-range around CHF 65 (about EUR 70) per night. The first afternoon is for the Çarşı old town: the Kaymakamlar House as a museum, the Cinci Han, the workshops of the shoemakers and coppersmiths, and to finish a bath in the Cinci Hamam. On the second day drive to the İncekaya aqueduct and the Tokatlı Canyon with its glass platform, and in the afternoon to the Yörük village, which is even more unspoilt than Safranbolu. Buy saffron only in threads and ask where it comes from; the real thing comes from the surrounding villages. On to Sinop: 330 kilometres via Kastamonu and the D030 to the coast, around five hours with breaks, scenically the most beautiful leg of the trip.

    Tours at this stop: Safranbolu old town guided tour ↗Tokatlı Canyon and Yörük village ↗

    Open the Safranbolu travel guide →

  5. Day 11 to 12

    Sinop: Prison, Hamsilos and the End at the Cape

    Sinop sits on a peninsula at the northernmost point of Turkey and is the quietest harbour town on the Black Sea. The historic prison within the fortress walls, in operation from 1887 to 1997, is the real reason to visit: cell blocks, courtyards, the stories of the writers who were held here. After that the fortress walls, the harbour with its fishing boats and in the evening mantı or fresh fish on the waterfront promenade. On the second day drive eleven kilometres north to Hamsilos, the narrow wooded inlet marketed as Turkey's only fjord, on to Cape İnceburun with its lighthouse, and in the afternoon to Karakum beach or the Erfelek waterfalls, 30 kilometres inland, a chain of 28 cascades in the forest. Sleep in a simple mid-range hotel on the harbour, around CHF 55 (about EUR 59) per night. Return journey: Sinop airport has flights to Istanbul on some days only; more reliable is Samsun airport, 170 kilometres on the D010, two and a half hours, where you drop the car and fly via Istanbul to Zurich.

    Tours at this stop: Hamsilos and cape boat trip ↗Erfelek waterfalls ↗

    Open the Sinop travel guide →

If you book through these links we earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.

What the route costs

Rough total per person for the whole route, mid-range, travelling as a pair. Flights and hotels vary by season; details are on the destination pages.

  • Getting there 407 EUR
  • Accommodation 375 EUR
  • Food 385 EUR
  • Local mobility 514 EUR
1,680 EUR
Total per person · 12 days

Money & payment: You pay in Turkish lira (TRY). The exchange rate moves a lot, which is why all prices here are given in francs and euros. Cards are accepted almost everywhere; you need cash for the dolmuş, markets and tips.

Rental car for this route

A rental comparison link will follow once the partner programme is live. Until then, compare directly with the rental companies or at your arrival airport.

Tips for the route

The route can also be driven from west to east: fly to Ankara, drive three hours to Safranbolu, then Sinop, Amasya, Rize and fly home from Trabzon. That puts the longest leg in the middle and the best part, the high pastures, at the end. The downside: you drop the car in Trabzon, where the one-way fee from Ankara is higher than from Samsun.

A one-way rental between Trabzon and Samsun costs a surcharge of CHF 50 to 100 (about EUR 54 to 107) with the big rental companies, and considerably more between Trabzon and Ankara. Take a car with some ground clearance; no 4x4 is needed, but the high pastures above Ayder are gravel. In rain you go up there with a local driver, 50 to 80 francs for the day for the whole car.

The D010 coastal expressway is four-lane, fast and dull, with tunnels and lorries. Still reckon with an average of 70 kilometres per hour. Inland the roads are two-lane, winding and good. There are no tolls; the motorway around Samsun is free. Petrol stations are frequent, even at night, and cards work everywhere.

It rains. The eastern Black Sea coast is the wettest region in Turkey, even in July, and snow lies on the high pastures until June. Pack a proper rain jacket, hiking boots with grip and a fleece for Ayder, where it is ten degrees at night even in August. Plan Sümela and the pasture drive for the morning; fog almost always rolls in during the afternoon.

June and September are ideal: green slopes, the tea harvest, the pastures free of snow, Uzungöl and Ayder without the tour groups from the Gulf, who double the prices in July and August. October colours the forests around Safranbolu and Sinop but is already cold up high. In winter Ayder can only be reached with chains and Sümela is closed at times.

Book the konaks in Amasya and Safranbolu in advance; the good houses have only five to ten rooms. In Trabzon, Rize and Sinop you will find a room on the spot. For Sümela you buy the ticket at the gate, around CHF 20 (about EUR 21); the shuttle from the lower road up to the monastery costs extra, on foot it is 40 minutes uphill through the forest.

Frequently asked questions about Black Sea Road Trip

How long do you need for the Black Sea?

Twelve days for the stretch from Trabzon to Sinop with five bases. Less only works if you leave out a section: Trabzon, Rize and Amasya in eight days with the return flight from Samsun, or Safranbolu, Sinop and Amasya in seven days from Ankara. Both are lovely trips in their own right.

When is the best time to travel?

June and September. The high pastures are then free of snow, the tea gardens in full leaf and the tour groups from the Gulf not yet or no longer there. July and August are green but crowded in Ayder and Uzungöl. In May everything is in bloom but there is still snow on the pastures. October is beautifully colourful and still mild by the sea.

Can you do the route by bus and dolmuş?

Partly. Intercity buses connect all five towns, but the legs then take six to ten hours. Sümela, Uzungöl and Ayder can be reached on day tours from Trabzon and Rize, the high pastures only with a driver. As a couple the hire car is no more expensive than the tours, and you gain the freedom to stop in tea villages.

What does the road trip cost per person?

Around CHF 1,570 (about EUR 1,680) per person travelling as a couple in mid-range: flight via Istanbul 380, eleven hotel nights 350, food 360, hire car for twelve days with fuel for 1,200 kilometres, one-way surcharge and 4x4 driver 480. The Black Sea is cheaper than the southern coast; only the fuel adds up over these distances.

Is driving on the Black Sea demanding?

Not on the coastal road, which is wide and straight. Inland and in the valleys you must expect tight bends, fog, cows and tea tractors, and gravel on the pasture roads. Do not drive at night, keep your distance in fog and skip the high pastures in heavy rain. A Swiss driving licence is sufficient.

Is there a shorter or longer version?

Shorter: only the east, Trabzon and Rize in six days with the return flight from Trabzon, no long legs. Longer: after Rize continue to Artvin and the Georgian valleys, or before Amasya spend two nights in Hattuşa and Çorum, which turns it into a two-week journey through Hittite country.

More itineraries through Turkey

Road trip · 10 days
Turkey · 3 stops

Lycian Coast

Antalya · Kaş · Fethiye

The D400 along the Lycian Coast is the most beautiful coastal road in Turkey. You drive it in ten days from Antalya to Fethiye, with swimming stops, ruins and three bases instead of packing your bags every morning.
Cities & culture · 8 days
Turkey · 3 stops

Istanbul and Cappadocia

Istanbul · Cappadocia

The city on two continents and the fairy chimneys in one week: this route is the reason most people travel to Turkey for the first time, and it works entirely without a car.
Road trip · 12 days
Turkey · 5 stops

Aegean Round Trip

Izmir · Çeşme · Kuşadası · Pamukkale · Bodrum

Ancient cities, wine villages, travertine terraces and the most beautiful coves of the west coast in one loop from Izmir. Twelve days, five bases, around 800 kilometres on good roads.